Previous Home Next
ImageName

Mark's motorcycle sidecar experience led him to build in plenty of adjustability for the sidecar wheel toe-in and camber plus the lean of the main bike away from the sidecar to compensate for the sidecar drag. Mark explained that getting a sidecar to go straight is a matter of "Balancing a bunch of non-symmetrical forces so they cancel each other out.".

A. Lower tie rod length can be changed by screwing in or out the ball joint tie rod ends. This adjusts the amount of Camber.

B. Toe In can be adjusted in 0.012" increments by screwing in or out a large tie rod end.

C. The rear of the non-swinging "Swing Arm" can be bolted to any of 4 holes on the chassis, changing the height of the sidecar wheel relative to the rig. This adjusts Leanout of the bike in 1 degree increments. Normally the sidecar mounts pivot for this adjustment, but that wouldn't work due to the pedal arrangement.

There will be two old friction shift levers on a diagonal bracing tube near the captain for a parking brake and for the sidecar drive clutch. The rig will have four V brakes, one for a parking brake and the others to slow down this rather heavy (final weight 76 lbs) beast. Not that Mark expects it to ever get going very fast when the smallish mother is trying to move the weight of the rig and her daughter. With a total of 8 cables on the bike, there are a number of braze-ons yet to be attached.